It’s when everything is exposed that you need to be flawless. This is the mindset that inspired Brazilian fashion label UMA by Raquel Davidowicz when it put together its Spring/Summer 2019 collection. “The most complicated skill is to be simple,’ said its mood board. Since the brand was launched in 1995, UMA has consistently been upholding minimalist sensibilities. This design ideal was borne out of strong affinity with art, architecture and modern design. Whereas most fashion houses relied heavily on trend forecasts, UMA was more focused on understanding and connecting with a niche market. ItS founders, Raquel and Robert Davidowicz, were keen on building a label that would appeal to the contemporary man or woman. This very distinct and refreshing approach to fashion, established a brand DNA that would later reach out to a more global audience. The most recent collection references this ethos. “ We don’t believe in only one creative direction or in trends. We seek to cater to our niche of market, which requires a comfortable, versatile, yet different silhouette.”
The company’s brand book is also a study on communicating with an intelligent, contemporary mind. It does not aspire to be overly intellectual although its ideals are certainly clever. What the label conveys with clarity—and without pretense—is a desire to be part of a cultural and social dialogue. Through fashion, the people behind UMA try to bring to light issues and concerns surrounding immigration in whatever way they can. When they presented their Fall/Winter 2018 collection, the label mounted a show at The Immigration Museum of the State of Sao Paulo. Models sent down the runways were a showcase of fashion and diversity. Occupying seats on the front row were like-minded tastemakers who also supported the same cause. This included Audrey Hepburn’s granddaughter, Emma Ferrer, who is also a representative for the UN’s High Commissioner for Refugees. UMA also recently partnered with Brazilian NGO, Abraco Cultural to “encourage professional initiation of refugees on the local market.” A limited edition tee shirt was released by the company online and in stores. Part of the proceeds from sales of this item were committed to go to the NGO.
For 2019, UMA has decided to start the year in fashion with a collection that celebrates grass roots and inclusivity . Pieces for Spring/Summer 2019 were specifically shaped to celebrate the the female form. “(It) will highlight inclusivity as an important factor for future business growth. Retailers should consider a wider audience and include a greater variety of shapes, ages, races, religions and gender identities in their collections and campaigns,” said the collection brief.
Colors like ultraviolet, green, blue, off white, sand, mineral gray and tobacco were selected as part of a palette that could go from one season to another. Details like utility pockets, cutouts, inverse prints and pleats were added onto functional, sportswear-inspired pieces to create a more dressed up look. “The colors and shape come together to create something we believe to be genuine, wearable and different. The silhouette is fluid, marked by drapery and pleats that result in new asymmetric shapes. Our prints are composed of geometric lines, creased paper effect and dyed fabrics.”
For more information or to shop UMA Raquel Davidowicz, click here.